Before I begin
my inconsequential rant, I want to address the very last thing that was written
in the incoherent blog that is the subject of my rant today. The update at the
end reads – “I want to thank all of the Indian readers who commented (yes, even
the criticisms). I have promised to return to India one
day and give it another chance, this time doing more research about the country
and spending more time in the non-urban areas.” My response: “Please
don’t. India doesn’t
need you to give it a second chance. It’s perfectly fine without personified
orientalisms (such as you) pervading and polluting its existence. So, thanks
but no thanks.” One last thing before I begin. I am not an India apologist
like many of the responders on your blog. India is my
mother land. I have spent a considerable part of my formative years in India and
my still incomplete education began there. Like many people I know, India elicits
in me extraordinarily complicated emotions. So, I am not even going to go there
right now. This post is devoted solely to the travesty that is your blogpost: http://markmanson.net/a-dust-over-india
Dear Mr. Mark
Manson,
Your blog starts
with the claim you have been to 40 different countries. I find it hard to
believe that such a prolific traveler is surprised when he finds contradictions
within a country which is teeming with millions. You ask yourself what the
“immense history, the monuments, the spectacular sites of human ingenuity” are
doing in India.
I realize that if it could be helped the British (the former colonizers) would
have uprooted all those silent witnesses to the incredible history of India (like
they did with smaller artifacts), but since the technology didn’t exist back
then, we will have to live with them being there. I know, it’s a bloody shame.
The first thing
that you noticed was the trash. I am frequently told that the first thing
people notice when they get off the plane is overwhelming smell (both good and
bad). But I guess the trash and the smell (the bad kind) go well together. Yes,
there is trash. And yes, there is the unforgiving inability to dispose of trash
in a clean manner. It is a public health hazard and we all know it. It is
embarrassing. It is dirty. But do you realize that the Dharavi slum (which you
most likely walked past in Mumbai) is the recycling heart of India?
The Dharavi slum recycling enterprise has hidden within itself 15,000 single
room factories which employ around a 250,000 people and turns over a billion
dollars every year. You can read more here: http://sustainablebusinessforum.com/sbtoolkit/73201/india-s-dharavi-recycling-slumdog-entrepreneurs. Did you notice that on those mounds of trash (everywhere) people
were making their living by picking up plastic bags, bottles and other
recyclables? You failed to recognize that in the process of giving off an
unbelievable stench that organic waste is actually being degraded instead of
being processed? Surely, Mr. Manson, you could have worked a little harder
before starting your shortsighted rant?
You know the
opening scene of Slumdog Millionaire when they show the young protagonist and
his friends jumping into a pond of shit? (I think that’s what happened, but all
I remember really is that there was a pond of shit, and there were boys in it).
This blogpost of yours elicited that memory of mine a multiple times.
Apparently there are people rolling around in shit, covered in shit, eating
shit everywhere. I wonder what happened to make you so petrified of shit. But
then who am I to judge, I can’t even throw out the garbage without throwing up
a lung. I am also petrified of shit. The idea of having a baby (even though I
love babies) and having to re-grow a lung every time I clean a diaper itself
makes me want to throw up a lung. And yet, the “shit is everywhere” concept is
eluding my memory. Perhaps it’s the fact that I am 33, and my memory isn’t what
it used to be. While Slumdog Millionaire was rife with orientalisms I can not
think of a better example of modern orientalism than the one you have provided
me with on this beautiful day. I say “modern” because there still exists James
Mill’s work on India.
You say, “the
city is so crowded and disgusting that people decide they’d rather sleep on the
airport runway.” Yeah. That is true. The city is crowded. This is the
nature of the Indian metropolis – and it’s even more true for Mumbai. Cities
are crowded, because as rural farmers struggle with producing what they need to
be in order to just feed their families, they seek out a better life in the
cities. When they come to the cities, they can’t find work and so they need to
find a place to rest at the end of a long day. And, one of those places is the
airport tarmac. It may be ridiculous to you, Mr. Manson but this is the nature
of the rational man. When given no options he will pick the one that is the
least objectionable. I can assure you that no Indian who is sleeping on the
tarmac finds the city disgusting. If he did, he would go back to the place that
he left in search of a brighter life. And one other thing, no one “decides”
to sleep in anything but a bed.
“How could a
place like this be allowed to exist?” – The same way a place where a teenager
goes to the store to buy a drink gets shot and killed because he was a wearing
hoodie is allowed to exist Mr. Manson. The same way Guanatanamo Bay,
a prison where men are robbed of their human rights by one of the most
“developed” nations on earth is allowed to exist. For such a well travelled man
you have an unbearable poor sense of how things come to be. How can you be so
naïve? India is
one of the most corrupt nations on the planet. That’s how this is allowed to
exist. That is why you saw no government. When people have no greater sense of
need than to fill their own stomach, they don’t have time to worry about
anything else. That is why there is no social accountability. When the rich
make their living off of the poor and decrepit, they don’t care about fixing
the social ills (just like in America).
That is why there is no social change. If you are truly interested, I could
send you a list of books that can explain to you why this country exists. But
I’ll move on for now.
Your rant about
saving India is
possibly the worst example of white guilt that I have ever come across. The
fact that you group Mother Teresa, and Bill Gates into that same saviour
category is telling. It shows that you are absolutely clueless. You see, Mother
Teresa dealt with the problem after it came to be. She picked up the poor and
destitute and cared for them. She took their orphaned children and found them
caring, loving homes. She however, NEVER sought to find the root and nip it in
the bud. She didn’t teach people how to not have children which they couldn’t
afford, in fact she went around the country undoing what government sex
education campaigns were trying to do- educate people about the problem of
population. Bill Gates on the other hand doesn’t simply hand out money to
people who have malaria or polio. His foundation works on eradicating the
problem of Malaria/Polio itself, by curbing mosquito populations and by
increasing awareness of vaccinations. Bill Gates understands that the solution
to all social ills in countries like Africa and India is in
one word: education. You, on the other hand went to the most obvious solution:
handing out money. And you didn’t really do that simply because you wanted to
help, you also wanted to feel like you are helping. You know how I
came to this conclusion? Because when you bought that couple food at what I
would assume was a roadside dhaba, you felt the need to go put the plate down
in front of them yourself. If you really are as well traveled as you say you
are, then you should have known to buy them the plate and ask the
storekeeper/waiter to take the food out to them and not give it to them
yourself. But, if you did that you wouldn’t be able to look down at them while they ate what might have
been their first full meal in months.
And, I just have to say this. NO ONE GOES TO AGRA TO EXPERIENCE
THE COUNTRYSIDE. It’s one of the most famous tourist spots in the world. Why
would you think it would be peaceful?! *shakes fist in air*. And, one other
thing, - yeah, when many Indians see non-brown skin they find it fascinating.
There is also the unhealthy obsession with fairness but again that’s another
issue. And yeah, they might want to take pictures with you. It’s just like a
white person wanting to take a picture with an African tribe. I’m sure you’ve
taken pictures of what was unfamiliar to you in India – the
shit everywhere, the trash, the poor people, the dirt. It’s the same thing.
You don’t see the
difference between a Pizza Hut in India and
one that’s in the west? Really? Western chains aren’t fast food to Indians.
They are a luxury. Fast food for Indians exists at every corner on the street.
For a few rupees (pennies to you) Indians can buy cheap, awesome, fast food
everywhere in the country. That’s why the manager came to ask you what you
thought of the food. And, maybe because he wanted a white person to say that
the Pizza Hut in India was
as good (or even better, which I think it is) compared to the one that you are
used to. Could you be a more self-entitled prick?
“Indian
culture itself is quite disorienting. The people can be incredibly warm and
hospitable, or cold and rude depending on the context and how they know you.” – Wait, do you not understand what the
word “culture” means? Indian culture (in the true sense of the word ie
language, dress, song, dance, food) is disorienting. And, that’s because India is a sub-continent. It has
geographic, linguistic, cultural diversity like no other. It has close to 30
states (and often comes up with new ones, which is why it’s hard to keep track)
and several territories. And, that is exactly why no two groups of people (just
like any other country) are the same. So, yeah some people will be heart
achingly nice to you and others will be complete assholes. It’s true in any
other country. Which is why even “academic” rudeness/politeness indices don’t
measure countries, they measure cities – because the social realities of a
community have a much bigger bearing on its citizens. That is why if you go to
a village in India,
where people are generally happier with what little they have, and have learnt
to find happiness in the simple pleasures of life – you will find that people
will open their homes to you and will expect nothing in return. The same goes
for places like Palestine, Bangladesh and rural America.
I have the same kind of answer to your “eye-opening” conversation with
“westernized” Sanjay. Indians aren’t capable of violence? Ummmm okay if he says
so. I guess all the communal riots, targeted violence, and the rape stories are
made up then. But, I digress.
As a side note –
I like how you snuck the ending to your rug story in. Even though you tried (a
little) it doesn’t redeem your judgmental, prickly orientalism. I do appreciate
your standing up to the cab driver though. That was a good one. It is a matter
of principle. However you should know that most large cities have made it
illegal for a cab driver to not run his meter. So, you should have asked him to
turn on the meter as soon as you noticed that he didn’t. It seems to me that
you were looking for a fight. For all you know it might have been an honest
mistake. And you should have signed his receipt. There are very strict rules
that cab drivers have to follow, and there are dire consequences (such as
losing his cab license or his job as a taxi driver) which can take away his
only means of making a living.
On your Buddhism
story, I only have to say this: commercialization of religion exists
everywhere, in every religion. Truly spiritual people learn how to pick out the
good from what taints religion. I think you need to practice more of your
meditation skills.
I’m also
surprised at your angst about the illegal wares being sold on the street. For
such a well traveled person I am sure you must have come across illegal DVDs,
fake brand name purses on the street in Singapore, New
York and
other such “civilized” places. Why is India any
different?
I get it. India drives us (former Indians, ex pats)
crazy as well. I am also one of those people who just can’t deal with the
poverty. I’ve
written about it before in myblog – that I feel like I’m sheathed by my sticky
affluence. A rickshaw-wallah
missed a train just so that he could take me home safely at 12 am when I was in India the last time. I gave him a 100 rupee
note instead of the 20 that he had asked for. His smile was the most beautiful
thing I have ever seen. Even now after countless tellings of this story, and
while I write this, that smile makes me cry. It haunts me. You see, that smile
doesn’t exist anywhere else. Nothing elicits more emotion in me than that
smile. And, yet, if I had the choice I would choose not to experience it,
because behind that smile lies a painful truth. That is the paradox. And no
matter how cruel his story, there is still beauty in that smile. There is still
beauty in India. It’s that beauty that makes us scrape
and save for a few years just so we can go to India for 2 weeks and live again. That beauty
lies in the trash, the smells, the awesome street food, the laughter of beggar
children playing street football (you see that’s why that kid was asking for a
soccer ball and not money). Happiness is fleeting and still beautiful in India. I am truly sorry
you didn't get to experience it.